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Investigating controversial mega-dams in Sarawak

Wellington-based Freeman Media journalist Edward White travelled to Sarawak, Malaysia to write four articles for their online publication Energy News. Asia:NZ supported him by providing a media grant for the journey.

Through working for Energy News I came across the state-led drive for mega-dams in Sarawak, Malaysia which are some of Asia’s biggest infrastructure builds. The government plans to build up to 12 dams on Borneo’s famous rivers in the next twenty years.  As New Zealand-based engineers were working on the dams I wanted look at what they were up to; see what other businesses opportunities existed for the sector; and present a balanced view of the complex development issues facing Malaysia.

When I left New Zealand, my plans were uncomfortably dependent on people I wasn’t sure would come through. My commitment to file four features from 11 days on the ground looked challenging, especially given the travel times to the remote interior of Borneo where the first of these dams, Bakun, is located. Further, the government viewpoint, which I had hoped to gain at least in part through the High Commission in Wellington, was looking unlikely.

I spent the first two days of the trip in Kuala Lumpur, one of which was taken up getting my media accreditation. I also interviewed Fiona Acheson, NZTE’s regional trade commissioner for the region. Then I flew south to Sarawak’s capital, Kuching. I had plans to stay for a few days to speak to people based there – including opposition party information spokesperson and prominent land rights lawyer See Chee How.

However, an activist based in Miri, Raymond Abin, informed me he would be heading to Sungai Asap  –  the community of 10,000 indigenous people, resettled for the controversial Bakun dam, then nearing completion.  He said if I could get myself there within 24 hours I would be able to accompany him.

An overnight bus and a four-hour four-wheel-drive trip later, I arrived at the entrance of Sungai Asap only to receive a text from Raymond saying he hadn’t made it. Unable to enter people’s homes uninvited, I hitched a ride to the Bakun dam a few hours away. I wasn’t expecting any problems visiting the site as it has become something of a tourist attraction in recent years. But at the security check I was turned away by the guards with no explanation. Stranded, I was given a ride by a logging-truck to the nearest town, Bintulu, where I spent the night and reassessed my options.

Thankfully, I tracked down some of Raymond’s colleagues who would be in Asap the following day. Over the next few days in Asap, I interviewed community leaders on the problems that have plagued the resettlement process: including gaining the compensation they were promised by the government more than ten years ago.

I also spent time with a group of people from Baram - in the northern part of the state - whose own land has been earmarked for hydro development and had travelled to Asap to hear first-hand accounts of resettlement. I interviewed the Baram group’s leaders on their plans to fight the government and companies advancing the project, and the alternative forms of development they are seeking for their region.

In Asap I was told that people still fished on the Balui River, just below the Bakun dam. With no other options for getting to see the dam, I spent the day to travelling to Belaga via the unpaved logging tracks.  The next morning I paid a fisherman to take me up the river on his longboat. A few hours later we arrived at the colossal concrete structure which is 200 metres high and 750 metres wide. I was taking photos from the base of the dam for about five minutes when a truck came toward me and the fisherman signalled we should quickly depart.

During the following days I spoke with people from longhouse settlements downstream from the dam about the effects it was having on their local environment and livelihoods. Between the dam and the indefatigable logging and oil palm industries, I was told that the rivers and surrounding jungle continue to be depleted of sources of food and shelter.

Looking back, while I was pleased to get better than expected access to the local community and make it to the dam, I was disappointed to have failed in my attempts to get the first-hand government view of development in the state and had to rely on official press releases and papers.

Still, I had enough material to work with, and managed to file three of the four features from Malaysia and one on my return. The stories were published online in Energy News and covered: the role of New Zealanders in building Borneo’s dams; Malaysia’s energy challenges and the resulting businesses opportunities; the plight of the local people seeking an alternative to mega-dams; and an examination of the case for going ahead with mega-dams. 

Images: (top to bottom)
1. Edward White on the Balui River, Sarawak, Malaysia
2. Bakan dam, Belaga District, Sarawak
3. Kayan women at Sungai Asap, Sarawak

Last updated: 29 August 2011